
Peas – Sabre – West Coast Seeds
ID: #642380
Description
Curved like a sabre, the long pods of this bushy, mid-season shelling pea contain 8-10 peas each. The plants grow to only 60cm (24”) tall and are very heat tolerant. A good choice for home and market gardeners. The firm pods are suitable for machine shelling. Sabre is not enation-resistant, so it’s best to plant seeds in early spring. By late summer, the pea enation virus is common in coastal gardens, spread by aphids. Matures in 68 days. Timing: Peas prefer cool weather. Plant as early in spring as the soil can be worked. If planting on the west coast after April 1, sow varieties that are listed as being enation resistant if you live in an area where aphids carry the enation virus. Sow again through the summer for a fall crop. The success of a fall crop will depend on the weather. Optimal soil temperature: 10-20°C (50-70°F). Seeds should sprout in 7-14 days. Starting: Soaking seeds is not advised for damp soils. Sow seed 2cm (1″) deep. After April 15th, sow seed 5cm (2″) deep. Space seeds 2-7cm (1-3″) apart in the row. Do not thin. If the seeds fail to sprout, try to dig some up and check for rot or insect damage. The challenge with untreated pea seeds is to give them an early start but to avoid rot. Growing: Use well-drained soil amended with finished compost. Add 2 cups of rock phosphate or bonemeal for 3m (10′) of row. Plant most varieties along a trellis or fence for support as they climb. Dwarf varieties do not need a trellis, but may benefit from the support of some twigs poked into the soil in the row. Harvest: Pick when pods at the desired stage. In theory, all peas can be harvested before the seeds mature, as snow peas, and then as tender snap peas, and finally as shelling peas. Most varieties have an intended maturity for picking. Make multiple sowings or grow several varieties to extend the harvest season. How to Blanch Peas: Peas of all kinds freeze particularly well for use in the fall and winter. Prior to freezing, it’s important to briefly submerge peas in boiling water — this kills the natural enzymes that exist in peas that would otherwise reduce the nutrients and cause the peas to break down over time. We recommend using a large pot of water at a rolling boil, and a colander or sieve for dipping. Timing is everything. For snap and snow peas, dip the whole pods into boiling water for exactly two minutes, and then transfer the pods to a bowl of ice water. For shelled peas, ninety seconds is perfect. Use a timer. After ninety seconds, transfer the peas to a bowl of ice water. All peas (and pods) should then be dried thoroughly on kitchen towels before being stored in zip-top or vacuum bags, with as little air as possible in each bag. Diseases & Pests: If plants turn yellow and wither from the ground up just after flowering, you may have pea root rot from a soil fungus. It infects the plant in early spring when the soil is very wet. Prevent it by delaying planting until the soil is drier and by using finished compost when you plant. Rotate peas into new areas each year without repeating an area for 3-4 years. Pea enation disease is a Coastal virus disease spread by the green peach aphid. It ends flowering and causes pods to become warty and misshapen. The pea moth is a sporadic and usually inconspicuous pest. The tiny brown moth flutters around when the flowers are just opening, and lays it eggs on the immature seed pod. The damage the caterpillar does not mean you can’t eat the rest of the peas in the pod. The larva is a tiny caterpillar with a black head, which feeds inside the seedpod and overwinters in the soil. There is one generation per year across Canada. In the pea-growing areas of the lower Fraser Valley in British Columbia, releases of two parasites have provided partially effective biological control. In general, processing and fresh-market pea crops should not be grown in areas with dry (seed) pea or seed vetch crops. After harvest, all remaining pods and vines should be destroyed by ensiling, feeding, or deep cultivating. Approx. 95 seeds
Price
CAD 3.99
Last Updated
10 August 2026, 16:27 UTC
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Basil – Sweet Thai Organic – West Coast Seeds
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Ocimum basilicum. Authentic Thai basil, widely used in Southeast Asian cuisine, featuring the unmistakable spicy, anise/licorice-like flavour. Pointy, narrow leaves grow on pretty purple stems. The pink-purple flowers that eventually bloom can be used as a garnish for sweet dishes as well. Grows to a height of around 40-50cm (16-20″). Timing: Basil grows well in containers indoors at any time of year provided you can supply enough light. For outdoor growing, sow basil seeds throughout late spring for transplanting to the garden after the summer solstice. Or direct sow in early summer, once the soil has warmed up. Basil requires warm soil and full sun. Optimal temperature for germination: 21°C (70°F). Seeds should sprout in 5-10 days. Starting: Sow seeds 1cm (½”) deep in sterilized seed starting mix. Basil is prone to damping off, so once seeds sprout, make sure they are adequately ventilated, and kept under very bright light. Thin to 20-25cm (8-10″) apart. Using bottom heat speeds germination. Growing: Use any rich, loose, well drained soil. Once plants are 15cm (6″) tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage really bushy growth prior to harvest. Watch for signs of flower buds forming in mid-summer, and pinch these off to promote more foliage. Harvest: Frequent harvesting will prolong the life of the plant. Basil leaves have the best flavour just before the plant flowers, and if you plan to preserve some of your basil or make a big batch of pesto, this is the best time to harvest. Flowering can be delayed by pinching or clipping off new flower buds. Tear basil rather than chop with a knife because chopping tends to bruise the leaves. Add basil to food just before serving so as to get the full aroma and effect. Cooking for any length tends to make the minty side of basil come to the forefront. Basil is best fresh, but can be preserved by drying or by freezing. To freeze, tear the leaves into small pieces and freeze small batches of them, with water, in ice cube trays. Once frozen, the cubes can be saved in zip-lock type bags and labeled for later use. This will preserve the fresh flavour of basil for up to four months. Approx. 450 seeds

Basil – Lettuce Leaf – West Coast Seeds
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Lettuce Leaf basil seeds produce very large, bright, puckered green leaves with a glorious aroma. Provide high soil fertility and a light, well-dug soil to get the largest leaves. We recommend using potting soil with two tablespoons of Gaia All Purpose 4-4-4 per liter of soil. Try this mix in containers in your patio herb garden. Tear the big leaves into salad mixes or use whole leaves to wrap savory morsels like brochettes or salad rolls. Lettuce Leaf Basil is a sweet basil, with milder flavour than the Genovese types. It’s perfect for the home gardener, but it also makes an eye catching and unique bundle for the market table. Timing: Basil grows well in containers indoors at any time of year provided you can supply enough light. For outdoor growing, sow basil seeds throughout late spring for transplanting to the garden after the summer solstice. Or direct sow in early summer, once the soil has warmed up. Basil requires warm soil and full sun. Optimal temperature for germination: 21°C (70°F). Seeds should sprout in 5-10 days. Starting: Sow seeds 1cm (½”) deep in sterilized seed starting mix. Basil is prone to damping off, so once seeds sprout, make sure they are adequately ventilated, and kept under very bright light. Thin to 20-25cm (8-10″) apart. Using bottom heat speeds germination. Growing: Use any rich, loose, well drained soil. Once plants are 15cm (6″) tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage really bushy growth prior to harvest. Watch for signs of flower buds forming in mid-summer, and pinch these off to promote more foliage. Harvest: Frequent harvesting will prolong the life of the plant. Basil leaves have the best flavour just before the plant flowers, and if you plan to preserve some of your basil or make a big batch of pesto, this is the best time to harvest. Flowering can be delayed by pinching or clipping off new flower buds. Tear basil rather than chop with a knife because chopping tends to bruise the leaves. Add basil to food just before serving so as to get the full aroma and effect. Cooking for any length tends to make the minty side of basil come to the forefront. Basil is best fresh, but can be preserved by drying or by freezing. To freeze, tear the leaves into small pieces and freeze small batches of them, with water, in ice cube trays. Once frozen, the cubes can be saved in zip-lock type bags and labeled for later use. This will preserve the fresh flavour of basil for up to four months.

Dill – Bouquet – West Coast Seeds
CAD 3.29
Bouquet dill seeds grow into compact plants around 75-90cm (30-36″) tall. Bouquet Dill is a particularly good variety to grow for nice looking bunching at the market table, and works well in containers or smaller herb gardens. This dill has fragrant, lacy foliage, large yellow flower heads, and large seeds, but the plants only grow about waist high. The structure of dill’s flowers is known as an umbel. Thus dill is considered an umbelliferous plant. Other umbellifers include carrots, cilantro, fennel, parsnips, and Ammi. All of these plants are attractive to predatory insects such as lady beetles, Syrphid flies (hover-flies), lacewings, and tiny parasitoid wasps. Organic gardeners like to grow dill precisely to attract these beneficial insects, for they will control pest insects like aphids, thrips, whitefly, and the caterpillar of the Small White Butterfly (cabbage moth). Timing: Direct sow late spring through summer, or sow when cucumbers are transplanted, to coincide maturity for pickling. Dill tends to bolt if transplanted, so it is best direct sown. Stagger the harvest by sowing every 2-3 weeks for a constant supply of fresh leaves. Optimal soil temperature for germination: 15-21°C (60-70°F). Seeds should germinate in 10-21 days. Starting: Dill seeds need some light to germinate. Sow seeds no more than 5mm (¼”) deep in rows 45cm (18″) apart. Thin the plants to stand at least 15cm (6″) apart. Growing: Ideal pH: 5.0-7.0. Grow in moderately rich soil in full sun. Water and feed regularly, and stop any overhead watering once plants are 60cm (24″) tall to prevent issues with mildew forming on the leaves. Harvest: Begin harvesting the tasty leaves once plants reach 15cm (6″) tall. About 12 weeks after sprouting the seed heads begin to form. When the first seeds have turned brown, cut the whole head and hang it upside down for the drying seeds to fall out into trays or paper bags. Dill leaf loses most of its flavour when dried, so freeze it in ice cube trays filled with water for use all winter.

Lettuce – Eazy Leaf Blend Organic – West Coast Seeds
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Grow sweet and crunchy baby leaf salad greens or full-sized heads — just space to suit the purpose. This blend can be harvested at the baby leaf stage, mid-head, or full-head size without losing any of its characteristics. This blend of two green and two red Eazyleaf lettuces grows a diversity of shapes and textures for an interesting and tasty salad. The Eazyleaf® series of lettuces are bred to yield a high count of leaves of uniform shape and size ready for salads, with one cut. Plant at 15-20cm (6-8″) spacing to harvest the full head just above the root and make your final cut for salad leaves just before using. Or plant heads at 10-15cm (4-6″) spacing and cut in the field just above the growing tip for a harvest of loose leaves ready to eat as a salad. Leaves will grow back for multiple harvests. Matures in 40-50 days. Timing: Seed every three weeks from just before the last frost date until the end of summer for a continuous harvest. Provide frost protection with a cloche or heavy row cover when frost looms in the fall. Many mesclun types and mixes will continue to grow all winter where winters are mild. Starting: Plant in a block or in a wide row. Sprinkle the seeds evenly over prepared, moist soil. Try to space seeds about 1cm (½”) apart. Cover lightly with soil, and firm them in. Four grams of seed will plant a 12m (40′) row that is 7cm (3″) wide, so don’t plant the whole packet at once. For container growing, choose containers that are at least 10cm (4″) deep. Wider is better. The most common mistake is over-planting. Growing: Moderately fertile soil – particularly if you’re planning multiple harvests. Dig in 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer for every 3m (10′) of row. For containers, use peat or coir based mix with compost added. Water regularly. If growth slows after harvest, use a bit of kelp or fish based fertilizer to provide a boost of nutrition for the next growth spurt. Harvest: There are two methods of gathering salad greens. You can use scissors to cut everything about 2-5cm (1-2″) from the ground, when the plants are about 10-15cm (3-4″) tall. Or, you can pick individual leaves as they’re needed. The first cutting may contain more brassicas than lettuces (arugula, mizuna) but if you cut the mix back when the leaves are still small, the lettuce will catch up. The salad greens will regrow for a second harvest in another 2 or 3 weeks.

Cress – Curly Peppergrass – West Coast Seeds
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Lepidium sativum. Fast-growing, frilly leaves leap out of the ground. A little cress really spices up a salad or sandwich. Plant a small amount of Curly Cress Peppergrass seeds frequently or grow indoors as microgreens in nearly any size of container. Curly Cress is a good seed to use in classroom settings because of its super sonic growth rate. The taste is mildly spicy and not too dissimilar to black pepper. It is a relative of both Watercress and the mustard family, and boasts a similar flavour profile. Cress is an incredibly rich source of vitamin C and K. Matures in 10 days. Timing: Seed every three weeks from just before the last frost date until the end of summer for a continuous harvest. Provide frost protection with a cloche or heavy row cover when frost looms in the fall. Many mesclun types and mixes will continue to grow all winter where winters are mild. Starting: Plant in a block or in a wide row. Sprinkle the seeds evenly over prepared, moist soil. Try to space seeds about 1cm (½”) apart. Cover lightly with soil, and firm them in. Four grams of seed will plant a 12m (40′) row that is 7cm (3″) wide, so don’t plant the whole packet at once. For container growing, choose containers that are at least 10cm (4″) deep. Wider is better. The most common mistake is over-planting. Growing: Moderately fertile soil – particularly if you’re planning multiple harvests. Dig in 1 cup of complete organic fertilizer for every 3m (10′) of row. For containers, use peat or coir based mix with compost added. Water regularly. If growth slows after harvest, use a bit of kelp or fish based fertilizer to provide a boost of nutrition for the next growth spurt. Harvest: There are two methods of gathering salad greens. You can use scissors to cut everything about 2-5cm (1-2″) from the ground, when the plants are about 10-15cm (3-4″) tall. Or, you can pick individual leaves as they’re needed. The first cutting may contain more brassicas than lettuces (arugula, mizuna) but if you cut the mix back when the leaves are still small, the lettuce will catch up. The salad greens will regrow for a second harvest in another 2 or 3 weeks. Diseases & Pests: Slugs love baby greens and flea beetles love brassica leaves.

Arugula – Astro Organic – West Coast Seeds
CAD 3.99
Astro produces a plant with leaves that are less lobed and more strap-like. It has a milder flavour than regular arugula. Astro is perfect for baby greens in early spring and fall – even in winter, as it’s very cold hardy. Baby greens are ready to cut in only 21 days. Arugula is very well suited to micro-green growing. As micro-greens it is delicious and tender, strongly flavoured, but delicate on the palate. With a nutty, spicy taste that is sometimes pungent or peppery, arugula really perks up salads, sandwiches, and even pizza. It is very cold hardy, and has a milder flavour when grown in cool weather. High in Vitamin A and potassium. Approx. 510 seeds. Timing: Direct sow every 3 weeks from mid-March to April and again in September for a fall/winter crop. Optimal soil temperature for germination: 4-12°C (40-50°F). Starting: Sow no more than 5mm (¼”) deep in well drained soil in full sun. Thin seedlings to 10-15cm (4-6″) apart in rows 45-60cm (18-24″) apart. Overcrowded plants will bolt earlier. Seeds germinate in 4-8 days. Growing: Ideal pH: 6.5-7.0. keep moist until germinated and then just keep the area weeded. Harvest: Use as a cut & come again crop, harvesting with scissors. Baby leaves are mild and tender. Diseases & Pests: Flea beetles will cause numerous tiny holes in the leaves. If these appear, try planting a couple of weeks later next year, to avoid their laying cycle. Or plant under lightweight row cover.